If you've ever wondered how to use a derma roller, then we've written an in-depth guide on everything you need to know regarding how to use it and how often - Let's get into it!
How To Use a Derma Roller
Step 1 - Choose The Correct Size
The first step is ensuring you have the correct size. Depending on your goal, you may need a large one or a very small one.
If unsure, try this Size Choosing Tool to find the perfect size.
Step 2 - Check and Clean It
Once you have the correct size, you must check and sterilise it. If it's brand new, there should not be any problems with it, but it's a good habit to have a quick look over the dermaroller to see if you can see any bent or damaged needles. Bent needles can happen if you accidentally bump them or if there is a manufacturing error, so you shouldn't skip this step.
Once checked, you should sterilise the needle head with an Isopropyl alcohol solution. For more information on this, check out our article How To Clean A Derma Roller.
Step 3 - Prepare Your Skin
Before using your derma roller, ensure your skin is clean and free from any make-up or skincare products. We want to make it as clean as possible before we start dermarolling.
At home rolling is a minimally invasive cosmetic procedure so we should always treat the preparation process with respect.
Remember that you should not roll over active acne or broken skin, so if you're having an acne breakout at the moment, you should get that under control before using a derma roller.
Step 4 - Begin Derma Rolling Session
It's time to start rolling! Gently roll the derma roller over the area you wish to treat 4-5 times vertically, 4-5 times horizontally, 4-5 times diagonally to the left and 4-5 to the right.
As shown in this image.
The area may become red, and this is 100% normal. During this stage, the blood under the surface is rushing to the area to repair it, where the magic of derma rolling is happening. You may feel a slight tingle, but you will not feel pain.
If rolling a part of the body for stretch marks, you will likely use a much larger needle length. The larger needle sizes may cause a little bit of discomfort, but it's not too bad. Bleeding with large needle sizes can happen, but it's not common. If it happens, it's nothing to stress about.
Step 5 - Apply Your Serum
Not that you've finished your derma roll session, it's time to apply a serum. You've now opened up thousands of tiny holes in the skin, and it's primed and ready to absorb skincare products. We often lose up to 40% of our products from failed absorption, so applying them after your rolling session means they work much more effectively.
Some people also like to use a sheet mask after their session, giving time for the product to absorb into the skin.
We recommend Tri-Hyaluronic Acid Serum as this is mild on the skin and suitable for all skin types.
For full details on aftercare, check out our article - Skin Needling Aftercare.
People often ask, how do you use a derma roller with vitamin c serum? Avoid products with strong, active ingredients such as Retinol and Vitamin C serum as these may irritate sensitive skin types. Keep those products for non-rolling days only.
That's it; you've completed your first derma rolling session and can now sit back and wait for the magic to happen. This could take a week or 3 months, depending on the skin issue you're working on.
Next, we dive into how often to use your derma roller.
How Often To Use a Derma Roller
We should use a derma roller the correct amount of times to get the best results based on our skin or hair goals.
Below we go over how often to use a derma roller at home, depending on your goals.
How To Use a Derma Roller on Your Face
For anti-aging, we should aim to use the roller 1-2 times per fortnight. This is relevant to people using the 0.50mm derma roller. If using a 1mm derma roller, you will roll 1 time per month.
How To Use a Derma Roller for Acne Scars
We should roll 1-2 times per fortnight for acne scarring if using the 0.50mm derma roller on mild scarring. If you have deeper acne scarring, the 1mm derma roller may be a better option at a duration of 1 time per month.
Severe acne scarring on the cheeks can be rolled with a 1.5mm derma roller at 1 time per 6 weeks.
How To Use a Derma Roller For Stretch Marks
For stretch marks, we want to roll 1 time every 6 weeks with a 1.50mm derma roller. If using a 2mm or 2.5mm derma roller, we should roll 1 time every 8 weeks.
How To Use a Derma Roller For Hair Growth
For scalp hair growth, we need to use a 1mm derma roller once every 2 weeks for 3 sessions. Followed by a 1-month break, then repeat. This gives the hair follicles enough stimulation but doesn't overdo it on the skin. Hair loss is something that can be worked on with the correct plan of action
How To Use a Derma Roller for Beard Growth
For beard growth, we should use a 1mm derma roller 1 time every 2 weeks for 3 sessions, then have a 4-week break, then repeat. This will help stimulate hair growth and give enough time for the skin to recover.
How To Use a Derma Roller for Pigmentation
For pigmentation, we should treat this the same as acne scarring. Derma rolling with a 0.50mm once every 2 weeks or rolling with a 1mm derma roller once per month. Pigmentation derma rolling is best combined with serums for boosted results.
How To Use a Derma Roller Based On Needle Lengths
Below we go over the correct number of times you can use your derma roller based on the needle size. Some people often use derma rollers on multiple areas, so understanding needle lengths is very important.
How To Use a 0.25mm Derma Roller
The 0.25mm derma roller is made for product absorption and working on large pores. It has small needles, and you generally won't feel anything when using this size. It can be used 2-3 times per week to help boost the absorption of serums and also help clear out and minimise pore size. This size can be combined with all other sizes of dermal roller.
How To Use a 0.5mm Derma Roller
The 0.50mm derma roller can be used 1-2 times per fortnight and is best used for anti-aging, collagen production, mild acne scarring, and pigmentation. This size can be combined with the 0.25mm derma roller on your monthly rolling schedule.
How To Use a 1mm Derma Roller
The 1mm derma roller should be used 1 time per month for anti-aging, acne scars, sagging skin and pigmentation. If using it to stimulate hair growth or beard growth, you can use it every 2 weeks, but you will need to take a 1-month break every 3 sessions.
How To Use a 1.5mm Derma Roller
The 1.5mm derma roller is best used for body rolling stretch marks or cellulite. It is generally too large for use on the face except for extremely severe acne scarring on the cheeks. The 1.5mm should be used once every 6 weeks for the best results.
How To Use a 2mm Derma Roller
The 2mm derma roller is reserved for use on the body only for stretch marks, cellulite and body scarring. This size should be used no more than once every 8 weeks. It will take 3-4 sessions to start noticing results with this size.
How To Use a 2.5mm Derma Roller
The 2.5mm derma roller is a very large size that should be used 1 time every 8 weeks for things such as deep stretch marks, cellulite and body scarring. It's essential to have the 8-week rest period as this is where the magic happens with your skin needling. Consider using a numbing cream if this size causes any discomfort.
Combining Derma Roller Sizes
Can You Use 2 Derma Rollers On The Same Area
It's important to remember that you should not be combining different derma roller sizes and using them on the same area. The exception is the 0.25mm; the 0.25mm can be combined with all other sizes.
For example: Do not use a 0.50mm on your face and then a 1mm on your face a couple of weeks later. Pick one size, use it until it expires, and then move on to a larger one.
When To Replace Your Derma Roller
As we use our derma roller the tiny needles will become dull over time. It may not appear to the naked eye, but trust us when we say you need to replace them. You should look for a product with replaceable heads as this will save you a lot of money over time.
Titanium Needle Derma Rollers
The titanium derma roller heads should be replaced approx. every 8-12 uses to ensure you get the cleanest and safest results possible.
All Essential Derma needle heads have titanium needles.
Stainless Steel Needle Derma Rollers
Stainless steel derma rollers are single-use only. You should dispose of this type of derma roller after one use. These are best used in a clinical setting but are not cost-efficient for at-home use. Always go for a titanium needle derma roller for at-home rolling.
We hope you enjoyed this guide on using a derma roller. Whether you're looking to stimulate collagen and elastin production or work on skin conditions and skin firmness, we hope this has answered all of your questions regarding the rolling process and how to use a derma roller properly.
If you have any follow-up questions or require further information, make sure to reach out to us. For more interesting information check out our next article - Does skin needling hurt?