The Ultimate Guide to Derma Rolling in 2018
Over the years, numerous skincare tools have been introduced into the market, but only a few of them have been able to garner the attention of the public due to the superb benefits they provide.
Derma rollers are the perfect example of this statement.
The positive reviews keep pouring in daily for this tool, and it does not appear that this will come to a halt anytime soon. In recent times, it has been a hot topic on various media outlets. It has proven to live up to the hype that surrounds it; thus, dermatologists and plastic surgeons around the world highly recommend it to patients who want to solve one or more common skin matters.
A derma roller also known as a micro-needling or transdermal needling device is a manual device designed to be rolled over the skin to create high density minute skin punctures to stimulate tissue regeneration and improve the appearance of the skin.
It is a hand-operated cylindrical roller, studded with rows of short micro-needles, that rotate around an axle attached to a handle. This skin treatment technique is used for skin rejuvenation, to treat stretch marks, acne scarring, hyper-pigmentation, wrinkles, and for hair loss therapy.
It is normally available (non-prescription) over the counter (OTC) for home or professional use.
In 1905, German Dermatologist Ernst Kromayer introduced skin micro-needling after experimenting with various elements with the intent of creating a tool that could aid in bringing skin back to its initial state after a trauma.
Mr. Kromayer showcased to the world how effective a micro-needling procedure could be if conducted several times over the course of weeks. At first, there was scepticism present, but after studies began to note its effectiveness, people began to put it to the test.
When you roll the roller over your skin, you’re creating tiny wounds. This action promotes skin and tissue rejuvenation, which in turn contributes to faster cell turnover and thus a visible improvement in the skin.
After age 20, collagen production begins to slow down by 1% every year. Skin imperfections are more difficult to resolve as the years go by, hence the importance of innovation in the field of skin regeneration.
Compared to other cosmetic procedures, derma rolling is minimally invasive. There is no downtime, which is one of the main reasons why more and more people of different ages are opting to give it the ‘green light.’
Contrary to the belief of many individuals who have not used a derma roller, it is very easy to use it.
People often worry that it will hurt or be uncomfortable, this is almost never the case when using the device correctly.
The main purpose of this type of device is to create micro-damage which forces your skin to rejuvenate itself naturally.
This type of skin stimulation is suitable for people looking to improve the appearance of:
- Acne scarring
- Body scarring
- Stretch marks
- Enlarged pores
- Aged skin
- Overall skin health
If you’re looking to improve your overall skin health or any of the things listed above, this device has been shown to help. Another benefit that is often overlooked is the use of the device to help absorb skincare products. We often lose a large percentage of serums and creams during the absorption process, so by using these products immediately after rolling you’ll find this increases their effectiveness.
Not all rollers have been created equal and its important to know what to look for before you get started.
- Registered in the ARTG (TGA)
- Needle Material
- Replaceable Head
- Needle Size
Registered in the ARTG
To start off with, you need to make sure the product you are buying has been registered in the ARTG (If you’re based in Australia).
This is something overlooked by many people and can often lead to the usage of unsafe devices.
The ARTG is the public register of medical devices that is operated by the Australian Government, specifically the TGA (Therapeutic Goods Administration).
The point of the ARTG is to show that the device has gone through strict compliance to ensure they are safe to use. If a device is not listed in the ARTG it is being sold illegally and this could be a huge risk to your health.
Essential Derma (The Trustee for Yulisik Trust) can be found on the TGA website here - ARTG ID 302252
Titanium Vs Stainless Steel needles
Usually there are 2 types of needles that are used, stainless steel and titanium. Stainless steel is the material that most cheap unregulated products use, it works great, but the needles dull very easily.
Titanium is currently the most premium material and stays sharp for much longer. Basically, stainless steel should be looked at as single use and titanium as re-usable. Most people are not happy to spend $50-$100 on a single use device, therefore you should always go titanium.
When purchasing a roller its important to look for a product that has a replaceable head. You don't need to keep purchasing complete units every time your needles need replacing, this is a waste of money and produces more waste in our environment for no reason.
Our heads are fully replaceable and interchangeable, this means no matter what size the head or the current stage of its life cycle, you can remove it with a push of a button and continue to use the same handle.
Once you’ve confirmed the device is in the ARTG and that the needles are titanium, its time to figure out what size you need.
The sizes available range from 0.2mm all the way up to 3mm so its important to know what size the best option for you is.
We’ve created a tool that you can use that will pick the perfect size for you based on your goals.
Click below to give it a try – It takes less than 20 seconds.
To give you a summary on the sizes, here are the most commonly used sizes based on specific goals.
- 0.2-0.3mm – Product Absorption
- 0.5mm-1mm – Anti-Aging, Acne Scarring, Enlarged Pores
- 1mm-3mm – Body Scarring, Stretch Marks
Everyone’s goals are different so its important you seek advice specific to your own situation before using this type of device.
We offer free unlimited coaching to all our customers to ensure they are using the correct size and they are rolling at the appropriate times to ensure they get safe and long-term results.
Use the size choosing tool below to ensure you pick the right product before getting started.
- Wash and dry your face or the area you’re looking to treat.
- Remove the roller from the packaging and run it under warm water
- Once dry, grab a simple Isopropyl Alcohol solution to disinfect the roller head. This can be done by spraying or soaking the head.
- Allow the head to dry
- You’re now ready to start using the roller
Isopropyl Alcohol can be purchased from Coles, Woolworths, Chemists, Bunnings etc.
Gently roll the derma roller over the area you wish to treat 4-5 times vertically, 4-5 times horizontally, 4-5 times diagonally to the left and 4-5 diagonally to the right. As shown in this image.
Once you finish rolling its time to apply your favourite serum or cream. This is where the magic happens as your skin is primed and ready to fully absorb your serums.
Apply your favourite serums such as Hyaluronic Acid or Vitamin C serum and let your face recover. You should aim to use the device at night time, so it gives your face a break while you sleep.
The next day you can go about your day as normal. Cleaning After use, run the needle head under warm water and sterilise it again with your isopropyl alcohol.
Once done, pack it away safely in its case, ready to use again when needed.
When it comes to micro-needling ‘less is more’, people often think that they need to use the roller more to get better results, this is never the case.
The rest period is more important than the skin stimulation period.
Here is a brief outline of how much you should use each specific size (at most):
- 0.25mm – 1-3 times per week
- 0.50mm – 1-2 times per fortnight
- 1.00mm – 1-2 times per month
- 1.5mm – 1 time per 6 weeks
- 2.00mm – 1 time per 8 weeks
- 2.50mm - 1 time per 8 weeks
How often should I replace the roller head
Every 8-12 uses is a good guide to go off for sizes of 1.00mm and under.
0.25mm - twice a week usage = 5-6 weeks life
0.50mm - once a fortnight usage - 4-5 months life
A lot of people stretch it and use them longer, but it’s not recommended, even these times are pushing it with usage.
The needles dull over time and the holes they make won't be as clean and could cause damage to your skin.
The stainless-steel needles most other brands use dull even easier and are only designed for single use or a few uses at most, therefore we stay away from them and stick to titanium.